Time to explore the Dordogne!

Monday we did some chores and then in the afternoon went for a bike ride to explore the village Limeuil.  It’s actually only about half a mile away, but over two bridges crossing the Vezere and the Dordogne where they join adjacent to the camp site.  It was an important centre from the middle ages until the end of the 18th century as small boats arrived down the Vezere and their goods were loaded onto barges (gabarres) to be taken on to Bordeaux along the Dordogne.

With hindsight it probably wasn’t worth getting the bikes out!  Having parked the bikes we walked up the hill through the old village along a narrow and very steep cobbled roadway.  Many of the old buildings have survived and are still occupied today.  Those of significance have plaques on the wall describing their history, notably the ‘House of Pleasure’ where, and I quote, ‘Young ladies offered comfort to the bargemen who were away from home!’  There are also a number of craft and art workshops.

We stopped at the top of the hill and paid our dues to visit ‘Les Jardins Panoramiques de Limeuil’ where gardens have been created on the site of the old castle. The gardens,  designed by Dr Linares were heavily influenced by his time in Morocco (where he was the doctor to the Sultan) and this influence was frequently referenced on various signs, with a photo of him adorned in harem pants.  We failed to notice any middle eastern influence but the gardens were amazing and gave us a great view of the two bridges and the confluence below, as well as the surrounding countryside.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We stopped off at the 15th century Inn – l’Ancre du Salut – on the bank of the river for a beer before the long (!) ride home.

Tuesday was a lovely day, so skipping breakfast we headed off to one of Gill’s recommendations Chateau Biron which was about 40km away.  This was once the seat of one of Perigord’s 4 baronies (like Beynac) and is on the border of Perigord and the Agen areas.  Byron is mixture of architectural styles from the 12th to the 18th centuries and in it’s time has suffered considerable damage particularly during the 100 Years War.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There was an art exhibition in place on the theme of Ogres with various sculptures and paintings, displayed both inside and outside the castle.  We’ll leave you to decide on their merits from the photos!

The cafe Gill had recommended was closed so we drove into Monpazier about 10 minutes away and had some lunch at the Restaurant la Bastide where we both had the meal of the day – but Karol left her caviar!

Monpazier is one of the most attractive villages in the area and is a Bastide (fortress) town founded in 1284. It’s arranged on a grid off a central square and some of the fortified gates still stand. It’s a beautiful town and we spent a lovely couple of hours exploring using the map we’d got from Tourist Information.

You remember Natasha who helped us on Saturday with our puncture? Well, she’d recommended a shop in Monpazier which sells jewellery made of grains.  We found the shop and had a lovely chat with Lucas the owner, who has a great sense of humour and is French (traits which don’t always go together!)  Suffice to say Karol’s birthday present is sorted!