Tuesday was very hot and steamy so we spent the day trying to keep cool and doing the few last minute chores in preparation for our move on Wednesday. Peter and Ro were moving on too, so we had dinner with them at the campsite bar that evening, expecting to finish the day on a high. However, when we got to the bar there was a blackboard sign up warning us of a possible thunderstorm that night with 80 km per hour winds, and suggesting that we needed to make sure we had everything tied down. This put a bit of a dampener on the evening as it meant that after dinner we had to take down our canopy and put away the tables and chairs, and Peter and Ro had to dismantle their awning and find a home for all the stuff they’d got stored in it too, all of which we’d both planned to do the next morning. So we curtailed our evening early and both got everything away before retiring.
As it transpired there was a brief rain shower for about 30 minutes but no wind at all, but if we hadn’t bothered then sod’s law would have applied I’m sure.
Wednesday was another lovely day so after a quick breakfast we got everything else packed away, checked out (very reasonable at 288 euros plus tax for 18 nights!) and said our goodbyes to Peter, Ro and May, and Didier the campsite owner. We then drove to our next site at Sainte-Foy La Grande which was only 90 minutes away.
We arrived at Camping la Bastide just before reception was due to close for lunch, chose our pitch and set to getting the caravan manoeuvred into position, which was easier said than done as it was quite tight. However, with the help of our new neighbour Leslie who was kind enough to point out hidden boughs in the trees where we planned to position ourselves, and found us a ramp to get the van over the high kerbs, we were duly set up by around 2 o’clock – lovely location about 50 meters from the Dordogne! This is an incredibly friendly site, mainly used by British with strong Mancunian accents! The residents all seem to know each other well, many have been coming here for years, and they seem to have a fondness for whisky!
We’d deliberately run the fridge down so next stop was the supermarket. Gill had told us there was a really good and massive hypermarket close by, so we used Satan to try and locate it but she failed miserably, directing us to a small and relatively poorly stocked InterMarche instead. We made the best of it and bought a few essentials, but then decided that whilst we were out we’d try and find the hypermarket too. After a couple of wrong turns and closed roads we succeeded, and gave it the once over. What a place! You could get Costco into it five times over and still not fill it! We’re planning to bring the gang here on Saturday – that should keep them occupied for a while!
I’d been having a bit of a problem with my right knee for a few days, and today it got worse and was really quite painful following the drive. Karol agreed to do the driving ‘sans caravan’ to give me a chance to rest it, and I iced it that evening which helped. Let’s hope it clears up before our long drive north next weekend.
Thursday was another beautiful day, so after breakfast we walked into Sainte-Foy La Grande to explore. We’d got a map from reception so used this to find our way in. Sainte-Foy La Grande is another Bastide town, but is now surrounded by the town of Pineuilh (which is where all roads seem to lead, and it is very confusing as a result!) rather than ramparts.
What struck us most as we entered the old town is just how run down and dirty Sainte-Foy is. Around 65% of the shops are unoccupied, which we haven’t seen anywhere else in France, and I suspect their high street is suffering in the same way as ours. French shopkeepers are responsible for keeping the pathway in front of their premises clean, so lack of occupancy makes for dirty streets. There are some old buildings that have been kept in good order or renovated, but there are far more very old and beautiful buildings which are not in good shape at all. Frankly, it’s not helped by the fact that adjacent to these lovely old buildings are large blocks of 1960’s concrete flats, which detract from the beauty of the place. It’s clearly not a particularly affluent town, but the local council have made some poor decisions which haven’t helped matters.
It also seems to be accepted in France that dogs will shit where they want, their owners can disown them as they do (do), and no one seems to bat an eye – as a result you have to pick your way amongst the turds when you’re out walking.
After a quick coffee we visited the Tourist Information and followed their historic monuments walking tour. My clear favourite was the Corridor House, one of the oldest buildings in the town, and not because it was better or more interesting than the rest but because it’s home to a hairdressing salon called ‘Hair du Temps.’ I think this would be a great name for Nick and Kate’s future motorhome don’t you?
Having completed the tour, we bought bread and walked back to the site for lunch, and an afternoon relaxing in the sun. We cooked our special chicken and chickpea concoction for tea, which we nearly lost to one of our neighbours who came over to say it smelt really delicious, and could she have any leftovers as she’d only got salad for tea!
Friday was forecast to be wet, and it was, so after breakfast we set off to find the gite where the 8 of us will be staying next week, which Satan said was about 25 minutes away. Karol drove (but the good news is my knee is much better, fingers crossed!) and after a couple of circuits round the local village we found it. Our main motivation in driving out there was to help us decide where we should keep the caravan whilst we’re staying in the gite, and the narrow roads and difficult access made that an easy decision – we’re leaving it at Camping de la Bastide!
We then popped into the vineyard across the road – Domaine Amblard – as the gite owner had made arrangements for us to store the caravan there should we wish, and we wanted to let them know it wasn’t necessary. Karol was brilliant – she explained in very short order and all in French, that we wouldn’t after all be leaving the caravan on their premises, and that we’d be back to wine taste the following week!
We then drove back to the site. I think we’re now ready to face the influx from Leeds Bradford in the morning, and I’m sure the market will mask many of Sainte-Foy’s deficiencies! If the gang read this before they set off they may have second thoughts – it’s lovely really, honest!
Thank you for your wonderful blogs. I can never think of anything interesting to say but I would like you to know how much we appreciate them.
love Dad/Ken